How To: DIY Craftsman Door Casing and Easy Corbels
Hey All! Corey here from Sawdust 2 Stitches! We have recently moved and I have found my self up to my elbows in casing and trim work! As much work and as tedious as it can be, I am ALWAYS amazed at how much it can add to a space! Seriously, there was nothing wrong with this entry before, it was in no way an eyesore, but as soon as it was cased out it became a gorgeous feature. So, if you are looking to add character AND value to your home, look no further. THIS IS IT!
How to Install DIY Craftsman Door Trim and Easy Corbels
Watch the video first:
Tools Suggested:
- Miter Saw
- Table Saw
- Nail Gun
- Sander
- Mallet
- Pry Bar
Supplies Used:
- Nail Hole Filler
- Sandpaper
- Caulk/ Caulk Gun
- (4) 1″ x 2″ Boards
- (9) 1″ x 6″ Boards (read all of tutorial before purchasing supplies because some board widths are apt to change)
- (2) 1″ x 4″ Boards
- Liquid Nails
Installing the Door Casing
Step 1. Remove Baseboards
Out with the old and in with the new! I wanted the door casing to run directly into the floor and have the baseboard butt directly into the casing. In order to achieve this, I had to remove the base boards around the base of the door frames. Nothing a pry bar and a hammer can’t handle in a minute or two!
Step 2. Interior Top
Next we are ready for the interior casings. You will need to measure the interior with of the door frame.
In my case the width was 5″ wide. So I bought a 1″x 6″ board so that I could rip it down on the table saw to be the correct size. (You will need to do this for all three interior faces of the door frame.)
Once you have the board cut to the correct width you will need to measure and cut the correct length.
The width of my doorway was 75″, so I cut down my newly customized board to 75″. For good measure do a dry fit and make sure the board fits before proceeding…
If it fits we are good to go! I slapped on a very liberal amount of liquid nails to the back of the board.
Once it is all adhesive-d up we are ready to install. Granted there is plenty of glue to hold it in place, I really don’t have that much patience or arm muscle endurance to wait for glue to dry. Therefore I reinforced with 2″ 16 gauge nails using a nailer. Worked like a charm. 
Step 3. Interior Sides
Once the top board is in place we are ready to move onto the sides. Same routine as “Step 2.” but , obviously it will be on the sides.
Step 3. Exterior Sides
Now we are ready for the exterior boards! Again I used 1″ x 6 ” primed fingerboard.
Here is the thing you will want to be aware of. When installing, I offset the new boards by approximately 3/8″. Basically you will want the interior trim’s side exposed about 3/8″. This creates a nice clean looks and gives you are little wiggly room for any discrepancies.
Keep this gap in mind when you measure the length of your boards. You will want to create that same spacing where your side board meets the (eventual) top header.
Basically if you are measuring from your floor to the inside of the top board, you will want to add another 3/8″s to your board. (Example: My floor to top board measurement is 108″, in order to create the same gap all the was around I need to cut my (new side) board at 108 AND 3/8″s.
Once you have all the math work done, install the same way you did for the other boards. Glue, nail, yadda, yadda. 
Keep in mind I am only showing one side of the entry in this tutorial, make sure you do both sides of the entry, or it will look a little funny.
Step 4. Build/Install Header
Next the header! I used primed 1″x 2″ finger boards (x2 for each header) and 1″x 6″ primed finger board (x1 for each header)
In order to get the measurement for the 1″x 6″ board you will need to measure from the outsides of your side casing. ( See image below)
The 1″x 6″ board will be the same measurement as your above measurement.
The 1″x 2″ boards will 1-1/2″ longer. (For example my 1″x 6″ is 85″ long, I will then cut my 1″x 2″ boards at 86 1/2″) This will allow for a 3/4″ overhang on both ends. Simply apply a little wood glue to the outside ends of the 1″x 6″ boards and press the 1″ x 2″ board in place and then reinforce with a 1-1/2″ nail .
Next install the header in the same manner you did the other boards. Apply liquid nails, and then reinforce with 2″ 16 gauge nails.
Again, don’t forget to do this to both sides of the entry, or your guests will have another reason to look at you wonky… I kid I kid.
Step 5. Trim Out the Base
The only reason I needed to trim out the base, is because of our newly installed flooring. The gap at the base was too wide, in most cases you will be able to butt right up to the floor with no need for trim.
Building and Installing the Corbels
Watch the video here and pretty please give it a thumbs-up, subscribe to our channel, and leave us a comment about where you’d like to put these corbels in your home!
Step 6. Decorative Corbels (Optional)
To make the corbels, I used 1″ x 4″ Primed Finger boards. Each corbel will need (x4) 24″ boards. (So a total of 8 if you are making 2 corbels.)
Using a table saw I cut all of my boards edges on a 45 degree angle.
Once one side was complete, I rotated and cut a 45 degree angle on the other edge. 
When put together these will theoretically make a hollow rectangle. 
When assembling them I used an instant set glue.
Once the glue is completely set, cut both the ends on a 45 degree angle. I made my corbels 24″ from long point to long point.
As a decorative touch I added 1″x 4″ boards to beef up the corbels. 
In a perfect world, all of the door frames and walls would be square. Alas, they are not. Because my walls are a little wonky, I needed to install my 1″x 4″ boards directly to the door frame. Again, I glued and then reinforced with screws.
Now I was ready for the corbels/supports. I applied a little glue to the ends of the 45 degree angles, and positioned them centered on the already installed 1″x 4″ boards. Once they were in position I “toe-nailed” (nailed them at an angle) through the ends of the angles directly into the secured 1″x4″ boards. Once these are installed 
Finishing
Step 7. Prep for Paint
Next I needed to prep for paint. Time to get rid of all the unsightly holes! To fill the topical holes I used a basic painter spackle/putty.
Once the filler had completely dried I did a once over with a finish sander.
Last thing I needed to do to prep for paint was caulk all the seams. The odds of all the boards meeting up PERFECTLY are slim-to-none. So don’t beat yourself up about it, caulk can be your best friend! It will make any unsightly gaps completely disappear. Abracadabra!
Now all there is left to do is slap some paint on this sucker. I used “Ultra Pure White” by Behr in a semi-gloss finish.
Want to see what else I have been up to in our new home ? These are some of my favorite new additions!
Take Luck,
Corey
More ways to update builder basic doors and windows:
plus more ways to update flat and bifold doors
Corey is the voice and grunt labor behind Sawdust 2 Stitches, she freely professes, that she has a problem... She CANNOT leave well enough alone.
She can typically be found hunched over a sewing machine and/or covered in sawdust. All in the effort to create a perfect balance of aesthetics and practicality in her home.
NOT a corbel. Tis a bracket! Yet another MericanMistake. A Corbel protrudes from awall and tkes the force of a beam into and down the wall.
Such a nice detail. So many newer homes lack character. This is a good way to add some.
This is a perfect tutorial. A question: In step 1, the inside of the opening of my door way varies from 4 3/4to almost 5.when I Rip the board, what measurement do I use?? Any I other advice? I am using traditional style trim due to it being throughout the house and it “mirrors” the French doors to my library and symmetry will be important
I love your paint colors. Would you share your white color and your living room and kitchen wall colors?
I would LOVE to know your paint colors as well!
I did this to some doorways in our home but I chose to remove the sheetrock around the opening because I didn’t want to narrow the opening. More work for sure!